After finishing Delhi and Varanasi, I took another train down to major city #52 Kolkata to finish my second leg of India on the project. While new to my project, Kolkata isn’t a new first impression to me, but it was my first impression of the country many years ago. It was such a good first impression too that I knew I had to come back to include it in my 100 major cities. One of India’s largest cities, Kolkata doesn’t have the same big city atmosphere as Mumbai or Delhi. It feels a little more welcoming and easy to step out the door and start exploring away with your camera. It’s one of the most walk friendly cities you’ll find for its chaotic size, which makes it perfect for street photography. Kolkata has a special, old world atmosphere mixed into a highly populated urban city. The colonial-era architecture contrasting with urban slums, it’s also gained a reputation as the most friendly of India’s metropolises. While it might not be as known with the general traveler, it is known among the photography community. It’s made for bringing your camera and exploring away.
So here are my first impressions of Kolkata, from my personal Street Photographer perspective…
7 First Impressions of Kolkata
(From a Street Photography Perspective)
1. Kolkata, my first impression of India
As a traveler, not many places culture shock you and provide a change of scenery quite like India. After my first arrival here many years ago, no other place has given me the same feeling. Now that it’s been years and multiple trips to India since, not even India gives me that same feeling anymore, either.
This has changed photography here for me too. Some of the photos from India that I’d admired before, don’t have the same interest for me as they once did. And I think that’s the thing about India. It’s a paradise for photographers, but part of that paradise is that it’s so different to other places, especially for viewers. Once you remove that appeal of the different, then you realize that the core and depth of the photo is really what’s important, just like anywhere else. While most snap away here in India and feel they get interesting photos just by luck due to always being surrounded with so much life, the photos tend to all look the same. India provides you with plenty of material, but that doesn’t mean you still don’t have to look for real interest.
Chaos everywhere, people bathing outside, dirty grime that adds texture, bright colors that add vibrance, birds flying, street dogs, street cows, and layers upon layers of life around every corner. These are all interesting, especially for new eyes, but once the newness is removed, what’s left is still what matters most. Sometimes I see too much focus on the uniqueness and newness in India, myself included, but even by locals as well. Kolkata is the perfect big city example of all that exotic newness and interest in India. It’s a special city that provides so much interest, but I think you still have to capture something special and truly new within all that “newness.” That’s the challenge of India, and of Kolkata. To capture something truly special when everything looks special at first sight.
2. One of the best walking cities in India
Most of India’s larger cities are spread out, but in Kolkata things feels more compact and within walking distance. By most accounts, Kolkata has the country’s third largest population. With the other top 3 cities like Mumbai and Delhi, transportation is needed much more, with many top spots long distances apart. In Kolkata, I can constantly walk around the city and hit more spots in the same day. The way the city is laid out makes it even easier and faster to get around too if you want to include the metro. Most of Kolkata’s city activity goes North/South along the metro line, without stretching out nearly as much East/West, making the metro easier, faster and not too far off most of the time. A lot of time can be spent in traffic and transport in other big Indian cities, but Kolkata is a great exception, which makes it one of the best walking cities for street photography in the country.
3. Kumortuli is a unique spot to explore
Kumortuli is a neighborhood in north Kolkata most famous for sculpting deities. This traditional potters’ quarter has become so famous for manufacturing clay idols for religious festivals that it exports them all over the world. You can walk through the narrow alleys here and see all the rooms and lanes lined with different gods and goddesses. Most are in the process of being created with straw and clay, while others are fully painted and ready to go. Early in the morning is more quiet, where you mostly only see the workers and locals who live here, and the interesting variety of deities. Later in the day, it can get more crowded, partly depending on the time of year.
It’s a very unique spot to explore with your camera and something you’re sure not to find elsewhere. There’s a good mix of local life too combined with all the surrounding interest. Nearby, across the train tracks, you’ll find the Hoogly River, where many of the used deities are thrown out near temples for prayer by its banks. I hadn’t made it here during my first visit to Kolkata and was glad I didn’t miss it this time, coming back a couple of times.
4. Everyone goes to the Flower Market and Howrah bridge, but you still should too
The Mullik Ghat Flower Market is the largest flower market in Asia. You don’t need to like flowers to enjoy it, either, because the endless variety being sold here creates one of the more unique and chaotic market atmospheres around. Its location right by Kolkata’s signature Howrah bridge background makes it arguably the most popular place for photographers to come. Behind all the packed stalls of colorful flowers, you’ll find busy steps down to the Hooghly River where people bathe and enjoy the water. If you’ve seen any street photography from Kolkata, chances are you’ve seen this famous bridge background. The market and life here goes from very early morning into the night, there’s almost always plenty happening.
Now, since everyone comes here and leaves with shots of men carrying flowers or children playing in the river with the Howrah Bridge dominating the background, that means you have to work to capture something more unique. While it’s been photographed so much, you still can’t leave Kolkata without shooting here. There’s too much activity and unique interest surrounding you here. My advice is to go really early at least once to catch things just starting up. The famous Kushti Wrestlers also practice here early by the river, but they always want money, which ruins it for me, but might not for you.
5. And of course New Market is full of action
The New Market, also known as the Hogg Market, is always one of the busiest areas in the city. Right in the center of Kolkata, you’ll find rows of shops selling clothes, jewelry, electronics, leather, household items, flowers, sweets and more. The unique red-brick market hall contains over 2000 stalls in all.
For me, the best part of the New Market isn’t inside, but outside in the surrounding chaotic streets. The shopping continues with street sellers, a meat market and more stores, along with some of the street food Kolkata is known for. This area has been the heart of the city’s shopping for over a century, even after a large fire in the 80’s caused much of it to be rebuilt. If you want busy streets and chaotic India, this is a top spot to go. It can get too crowded and somewhat touristy for some, especially among local photographers, but it’s still a must for some exploration.
6. Very camera friendly, even for India
India in general is extremely camera friendly, but Kolkata still feels even more-so compared to the other major cities. Locals have told me they feel a slight change towards camera suspicion in India over recent years, which I can say I may have noticed a little, but it’s still one of the easiest places to shoot street photography in the world when it comes to reactions. In Kolkata, especially for a foreigner, bad reactions just don’t happen. There is a flip side to that, though. You have to get the shot off quickly if you want it to be candid because people love to smile and pose for the camera. As a foreigner, especially holding a camera, you stand out so they notice you quickly. So, with all that camera friendliness comes both a gift and a challenge for street photography.
7. Kolkata still at the top for big city street photography in India
I’d been to Kolkata before, but had to come back to include it in my 100 City project. It had left a strong impression and still remains at the top of my list for big city street photography in India. The more I visit Mumbai the more it competes for the top spot, though. Mumbai wins on sheer number of interesting places to shoot, but Kolkata provides a more compact and enjoyable walking city packed with interest. Let’s put it this why, if I was to live in India for street photography, I’d probably pick Mumbai, but if it was for a street photography visit, then I’m going with Kolkata. Mumbai rewards time and experience, while in Kolkata, you can just jump in and enjoy the unique street photography playground of a city.
If any of you have been to Kolkata before, tell me about your experience and impressions of the city and country in the comments below! And stay tuned for more on Kolkata, including some of the best Street Photography shots I captured while there.
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(from a street photographer’s perspective)
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