7 First Impressions of Tunis, Tunisia
(From a Street Photography Perspective)

Tunis, Tunisia came in as major city #61 on my Major City project and here I’ll share a few first impressions covering the city with my camera. Tunisia is famous for being a Star Wars’ film location, but its capital, Tunis, isn’t on the radar for travel as much as it deserves. Here, you’ll find a mix of influences and atmosphere that you can’t find many other places, especially for the price. There’s the picturesque mediterannean coast with white and blue houses reminicent of the greek islands. In the center you get a completely different vibe filled with old character, chaos and one of the best medinas around. A mix of Maghrebi, French/European, and African influences can be felt and seen all over. Tunis also happens to have a well-deserved reputation for being the most open city in the region, providing a vibe that stands out if you’ve traveled in North Africa before. Coming from its past dictatorshiop, there’s a laid-back feeling that blends well with the mix of influences to make an enjoyable city for street photography that isn’t on most people’s lists.

So here are my first impressions of Tunis, from my personal Street Photographer perspective…

7 First Impressions of Tunis
(From a Street Photography Perspective)

1. The most open feeling I’ve felt in the region/North Africa

Since the Tunisian Revolution and ousting of their longtime president in 2011, Tunis has seen a lot of change and democratization of the country. From this rapid change, it’s also become known as one of the more open and free cities in the region. If you’ve visited other countries in Northern Africa and the Middle East, the differece becomes noticeable very quickly. Plenty of conservative past is still present, but the clothing of the younger crowd is much more revealing and trendy than you’ll see elsewhere. People openly drink and the nightlife is a big part of the city compared to other destinations around here. There’s a more relaxed vibe without as much constraint. The locals are proud of it and enjoy it too. This less conservative feeling mixed with the older scenery of the region can create an interesting juxtaposition that you won’t easily find elsewhere. This atmosphere also extends to street photography, as you don’t get near the push back of “no photos” or dislike of photography that you can find in surrounding countries. This all makes for a more relaxing experience walking the streets with your camera, in multiple ways.

2. Another Medina, but it’s a good one

Like “old towns” in Europe, after you’ve been to a number of medinas, they start to feel similar. Tunis’ medina is a good one, though, and stands out on its own. For one, it covers a lot of area providing a variety of interest, life and scenery to explore. You can find a mix of chaotic and quiet depending on where you are. Tunis was once the one of the wealthiest cities in the Islamic world and its medina is one of the first Arabo-Muslim towns of the Maghreb (698 A.D.). All this history is felt throughout its labyrinth of streets and alleys containing mosques, palaces, squares, fountains and around 700 monuments dating back to this time. You get a real authentic and local feeling exploring most of the medina, as it doesn’t feel too changed by tourism once you get past the most touristic area by Bab el Bhar (“the sea gate”).

My favorite area for street photography was the busy and colorful market area around Marché Sidi EL Bahri, which also has a popular bus station. I always hit up this spot up in the northern part of the medina, but in the southern section you can find another busy market area around Marché Central. Those two areas give you plenty of hours of interest, but I enjoy exploring the rest of the medina too and discovering what new spots and interest I can find. Tunis’ medina can provide continually renewing interest with guaranteed life everyday. It’s one of the larger, more local, authentic and character filled medinas you’ll find anywhere.

3. Avenue Habib Bourguiba

Most cities in Tunisia have an Avenue Habib Bourguiba, but the one in Tunis is the big one. This wide avenue is the central thoroughfare and heart of the city. It’s compared to the Champs-Élysées in Paris and is lined with cafes, shops, trees and many of the city’s important monuments. The Monumental Clock is the most famous of these attractions, but people fill the sidewalks the whole length of the Avenue. It’s always packed with people here so you have guaranteed activity from morning to evening for a street photography walk. Its location is also perfect for heading other places for more shooting, including the Medina on one end or taking the train to the coast from Marine station on the other end.

4. Take the metro train from Marine to La Goulette/Carthage

While Tunis doesn’t have the best metro system for getting around most places, they do have the TGM railway, which is good for moving along the coastline. This light rail will take you from the city center west to the city’s port, La Goulette, and then north along the sea through Carthage, Sidi Bou Said and La Marsa. It’s around 15 minutes to La Goulette from the center, while going all the way to those last stops takes some time, especially there and back to the city. I took the full line to the end once, but multiple times to La Goulette and Carthage. 

La Goulette is the city’s historic port and the stopping point for any cruise ships. While it feels neglected compared to the prettier and more developed northern tourist towns, I enjoyed its character. Much of its history has been lost in the past, but I still found a good amount of interest. It’s not so polished and has some authentic local feeling. The promenade is lined with restaurants, cafes and plastic chairs so it does attract some life too. In the evening it tends to pick up and the main square can be another decent spot for some street photography. You can continue walking north into Carthage where you get a mix of old character and some picturesque beauty. Inland, you’ll of course find the famous Carthage ruins. The capital city of the Carthaginian civilization was developed by a Phoenician colony during the first millennium BC. For a touristic activity, you can check out the ancient ruins, but for street photography, walking the coastline is best here. 

For street photography by the beach in Tunis, I found the stretch from La Goulette to Carthage the best for character and unique local interest, while most will prefer the more polished, picturesque tourist town of Sidi Bou Said. The La Goulette/Carthage walk will bring more peace and quiet in many areas, but that can be enjoyable too. 

5. Further, you’ll find Sidi Bou Said & La Marsa

If you take the train a little further north you can hop off in Sidi Bou Said, arguably the most beautiful spot around Tunis. It’s also the most touristy, but its worth a stop to check out for the views and old town charm. Built on top of a cliff, its winding cobblestone streets overlook the mediteranean sea. Sidi Bou Said built a reputation as an artist’s town due to the many famous artists that have come here. Today, that influence provides streets lined with art galleries, studios and crafts for sale. You’ll also find souvineer shops and restaurants, as this is mainly a tourist attraction today, but the blues mixed with white painted grecian buildings give it a very photogenic look reminiscent of the greek islands. It’s not my style of street photography, but many photographers will love it, and it’s a nice change of scene and atmosphere from downtown Tunis. You can also check out more of the city near the train station.

Traveling even more north on the train, you’ll hit La Marsa, which is a coastal town popular as a vacation destination for the wealthier Tunisians. If you like beach photography, this would be the spot. And a little further north inland is Gammarth, the most popular nightlife district. While it’s 20 km from the center of Tunis, locals still make their way up here at night to party, as Tunis doesn’t have many spots for drinking or staying out late. This whole area up north is more upscale and while it might feel far away, Tunis feels like it extends to other nearby cities as one whole city. For street photography, that means you can have a lot of ground to cover if you want.

6. They’re still a little behind times in some ways

Tunis has gone through a lot of changes in recent times and while it makes for a very nice destination, it can still be a little behind times compared to other major cities in the region. It feels a little back in time in many places, which is part of its charm and character. On the other hand, finding things like lodging can be more difficult. Most things are very cheap, but lodging is the exception due to a limited number of options for its size. I went with an Airbnb room for the cheapest option available in the city, but it wasn’t a deal. For food and other goods, cash is a necessity as credit cards are rarely taken. And the transportation system is limited so taxis are really you’re only option for many places out of the center (no uber).  For me, I don’t mind most of this stuff, but for a city its size and with its attractions, it does feel a little behind others in some ways. But that also can add to its interest and it still has everything you need. In other ways, it looks and feels very developed and progressive for the region too, so it’s a mix as things continue to change.

7. Beautiful, welcoming city on the Mediterranean without tourist prices

In Tunis, you get Mediterranean weather and light, history and medina character, blue and white architecture on the beach, Carthage ruins, Sidi Bou Said & La Marsa tourist polish, an aged, but vibrant city center, and a unique life and culture. Tunis has quite a bit going for it, but without the prices you’d expect with all that. It doesn’t get the crowds of tourism of other cities like it on the Mediterranean, either, but still feels very welcoming. There’s less hassle and a more open feeling for the region too. It might surprsie most people how much Tunis has to offer for those that have never thought much about this North African city, but there’s a lot to like. For, Street photography it doesn’t stand out as the best city I’ve ever been to, but it’s better than most. And when it comes to visiting, it would come even higher on my list. 

If any of you have been to Tunis before, tell me about your experience and impressions of the city and country in the comments below! And stay tuned for more on Tunis, including some of the best Street Photography shots I captured while there.

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(from a street photographer’s perspective)

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