*A series of guides on shooting Street Photography in cities around the world. Find the best spots to shoot, things to capture, street walks, street tips, safety concerns, and more for cities around the world. I have personally researched, explored and shot Street Photography in every city that I create a guide for. So you can be ready to capture the streets as soon as you step outside with your camera!
Riga
Overview:
Riga is the capital of Latvia and the largest city in the Baltics. While it’s known by tourists for its old town, like other Baltic capitals, Riga has so much more interest offer. Starting with the most Art Nouveau architecture in the world in the center, you can also explore the unique Moscow district, providing an edgier atmosphere filled with character. There’s a relaxing Eastern European vibe walking the streets here with a special character and edge that is all Riga. And with the also interesting Jurmala only a half an hour away, Riga is at the top of my list for a visit in the Baltics if you’re a street photographer.
So here’s a Street Photography guide so you can be ready to capture all that Riga has to offer before you even arrive!
Map:
- Old Town
- Central Market
- Moscow District: Maskavas iela (street) (Katoļu iela station/Along light rail)
- Centrs (Along Aleksandra Čaka iela up to Park Ziedoņdārzs)
- Freedom Monument/Bastion Hill
Top 5 Street Spots:
1. Old Town
After covering so many cities in Europe, I have to admit that old towns are getting a little old to me (pun intended). After so many, most start to look and feel mostly the same. The architecture, history, cobblestone streets and charm are undeniable, but they usually also become extremely touristic and polished in a way that makes the atmosphere feel similar to the next one. For visitors that haven’t experienced as many Old Towns, Riga’s isn’t a bad one, but if you’ve been to many, it doesn’t stand out too much, either.
Saying this, it’s my personal preferences speaking. If you follow the blog or my work enough, you can see I like authentic, edgy, surreal and strange. Many prefer the beautiful and charming. That’s why Riga’s Old Town is where 95% of visitors spend most of their time. It’s charming with some nice churches, squares and cafes, but Riga has plenty of other interest outside this area. I explored the old town multiple times and it’s worth your time, especially if you like old towns and the touristic crowds, attractions and old charm they bring. But personally, Riga’s unique and authentic character is really found in the surrounding neighborhoods.
Moscow district:
2. Central Market
Markets are always popular spots for street photography, but their not always my personal favorite. I’ll check them out because their guaranteed activity, but you usually get more of the same. Messy, crowded, bad lighting and an atmosphere that mimics the thousands of markets you find in every city. Sometimes, though, you find those special markets that are all their own and provide the perfect place for some street photography. The Central Market in Riga is one of those places.
I’d put it in my top 10 for markets for a variety of reasons. First off, it has tons of space and lighting so it removes those 2 common market problems. It also provides a variety of markets and atmosphere for exploring. There’s a lot to see and you could spend hours shooting the whole area. The character of the market, including the characters you’ll find here, is what really makes it special, though. It has atmosphere to spare and everyday I came here, I found something new and interesting. It’s a very local feeling market, with a mixture of the city, including some of the rougher parts of Riga, which gives the market a little edge in areas. In addition to all the characters you’ll find here, you also see plenty of seagulls scavenging for meat, which adds another touch to the market life. This was the place I fit into almost every day in Riga because it never disappointed.
3. Maskavas iela (street) at Katoļu iela station, along light rail
Being the largest city in the Baltics means that you have more to explore outside of the old town compared to the other cities. This aspect of Riga was my favorite part about the city for street photography and the Moscow District was my favorite reason why. Now, locals and tourist books won’t recommend this district due to its shadier reputation, but I explored every bit of it solo on foot and never once felt unsafe. The character of this neighborhood takes you back in time, but not in the polished charm sort of way that the old town does. The feeling is much more real and authentic, especially in atmosphere. From the cobblestone streets to the traditional 19th century wooden houses, there’s a uniqueness to the old vibe the Moscow District surrounds you in.
It’s more neglected here and can be quiet in much of it, but the character makes up for it. I especially like the look of all the deteriorated wooden houses with their large wood pane windows. Somewhat similar to haunted houses, I haven’t walked around a neighborhood quite like it anywhere else. It’s the oldest district in Riga after the old town, but provides an unchanged version. Yes, you’re guaranteed to see a few drunk people on the streets, and maybe even some drug dealing in parts, but overall it doesn’t feel dangerous. In my opinion, especially compared to neighborhoods in other cities, I wouldn’t be worried. And its more than worth any bad reputation it has for a street photography walk.
4. Centrs/Central District (along Aleksandra Čaka iela – up to Park Ziedoņdārzs)
Riga is famous for its Art Nouveau architecture and there’s no better area to see this than in the Central District. Later in the guide, I’ll go more into the world’s highest concentration of Art Nouveau buildings, but walking in Central you’re surrounded with this impressive look. It makes for a good area to just explore and get lost in, especially for street photographers that love architecture. It’s also the city center so you get a very local, urban vibe here with plenty of pedestrian activity. The unique Riga atmosphere helps make it an even more enjoyable walk too.
I’d recommend just exploring away around Centrs, but some spots worth noting are around the KGB Museum and Miera Iela, which translates to ‘Peace Street.’ Miera is known as the hipster neighborhood in Riga, with art galleries and artsy cafes, boutique shops and bars. It’s older, wooden buildings, cobblestone streets and green areas provide a nice spot to explore, especially if you’re into that hipster scene. For me, the center of Central, where you’ll find the highest concentration of Art Nouveau was my favorite area to explore for street photography, though, outside of the Moscow District.
5. The Freedom Monument / Bastion Hill
Just north of the Old Town, dividing it from the Central District, you’ll find City Canal (Pilsetas). Surrounding this canal is a lengthy park called Bastion Hill. This wide green space provides some of the more picturesque exploring you’ll find in Riga, or any city. Locals come here to relax and stroll the many pathways along the canal and park. You’ll also find memorials, sculptures, benches and more mixed in. The most famous and popular spot to gather is around the Freedom Monument, located right in the middle of it all. This paved walkway attracts the crowds walking through the city between the monument and Laima Clock, either heading down to the Old Town, up to the Central District or walking along Riga’s central park. Other parks, including Vērmanes garden and Park Esplanāde are nearby to the north in Centrs too.
Bonus: Kipsala
Kipsala is a small island on the Daugava river across from the Old Town. If you want a nice view of the Old Town, it’s a good spot to walk, but it also provides some of Riga’s interesting older wood architecture and mix of past and new, as it’s become a prestigious neighborhood to live. You’ll some older fishing boats and a nearby beach, but while it can make for a scenic walk, it’s usually pretty quiet for street photography. Still, it’s worth mentioning for many photographers.
Sample Street Walk:
For a full day of Street Photography, covering some of the best spots, you can follow this sample street walk for Riga:
- Start your morning walking around Central Market (2)
- Then walk northwest to the Old Town (1)
- After spending some time here, walk northeast to Bastion Hill and the Freedom Monument (5)
- Then continue northeast and finish your day exploring the Art Nouveau filled Central District (4)
3 Things I’ll Remember Most about Riga:
1. Mix of Architecture
Riga has the highest concentration of Art Nouveau architecture in the world. In the city center, it makes up around one-third of all the buildings. Before knowing this, I started exploring the center with my camera as soon as I arrived and it felt like I was surrounded with this old Art Nouveau atmosphere. It makes walking the streets enjoyable and gives Riga its own charm. I ended up getting lost in the center the first day and didn’t mind it a bit. Around every corner was this character that made Riga stand out, and this style of building was definitely part of it. In addition to the impressive Art Nouveau surroundings, Riga also mixes in old wooden buildings that give another signature atmosphere when exploring the streets. For street photographers that enjoy architecture, Riga would make for an interesting destination.
2. Moscow and Central Market vibe
The Moscow district might not have the best reputation, but it’s full of character made for street photography. It feels older, unpolished, authentic and filled with its own atmosphere. Exploring its streets, from the busy Central Market to the quiet neighborhoods, there’s an interesting vibe throughout. The old wooden houses and cobblestone streets help this vibe, but it’s more than that and something you have to experience for yourself. There’s a real edge, without feeling dangerous. And the amount of characters here, especially around the market, really complete this photogenic energy.
3. Nice mix and atmosphere, better than expected when you explore, more than just the old town
During my 100 City Project I try to spread it out, not only to cover most major cities, but also to cover most regions. So, I knew I wanted to include at least one major city in the Baltics. I might include another in the future, but I chose Riga first because it’s the largest city in the Baltics, while the others are somewhat small to call a major city. I also chose it because research gave me a feeling that it had the largest variety of life and character to explore. While many tourists will pick Tallinn for its charm or Vilnius for its atmosphere, Riga looked to provide more for street photography and layers of life in the Baltics, in my opinion.
Luckily, my feelings proved true and Riga ended up providing even more of what I was looking for. Riga has a very interesting atmosphere throughout the city. It’s so much more than its Old Town, which isn’t as true for a city like Tallinn. The old wooden buildings, all the art nouveau architecture, the mix of touristy and local, and all the characters you find outside of the Old Town make for a more complex and interesting city than I expected. There’s some very unique characteristics found here along with more variety than you’d expect for a city its size. Speaking from a street photographer’s perspective, Riga should be a nice surprise.
Lots of parks
One thing that student out while exploring Riga was the number of parks found in the center, including the large size of many of them. Riga has a ton of green space in the middle of the city, with much of it providing a beautiful atmosphere of well-kept grass, pathways gardens, trees, water and recreational spaces. The locals love to enjoy the parks too and I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many baby strollers being pushed around in any other city. While they’re more peaceful than filled with activity, you will find a good amount of attractions inside. While walking the city, the bigger ones are almost impossible not to go through anyway, so I’d recommend giving them some exploration with your camera while you’re at it. Below are four main parks located in the center that are worth your time for street photography:
- Bastejkalna Park (Bastion Hill)
- Vermanes Garden Park
- Kronvalda Park
- Park Esplanāde
3 Non-Street Photography Things To Do in Riga:
- Eat: Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi, Beetroot soup and Rye bread
- Drink: Riga Black Balsam and Beer
- Visit: KGB Building/Occupation Museum
Street Safety Score: 8
*As always, no place is completely safe! So when I talk about safety, I’m speaking in general comparison to other places. Always take precaution, be smart, observe your surroundings and trust your instincts anywhere you go!
Riga is one of the safest capital cities in Europe, especially when it comes to violent crime. You can feel safe freely walking just about anywhere in the city, with crime stats that back this up. Some locals warn about the Moscow District, but outside of harmless drunks and a seedier look, there’s actually not much to worry about here, either. And this is the section I’ve spent the most time exploring alone in Riga. So, overall, for a major city, you should have nothing serious to worry to about visiting Riga for street photography.
People’s Reaction Score: 7
Riga feels right along average for street photography in Europe. It’s not especially photo friendly like Asia, but most people just don’t care. Negative reactions should be rare outside of a few “no’s” here and there, particularly around markets. In the Old Town, they’re used to tourists, but outside of this area they aren’t. So you might receive some strange looks if you explore much with your camera, but it’s nothing to deter you from shooting freely here.
Street Tips:
Walk a lot, explore neighborhoods outside of old town
I love to walk everywhere and I love walkable cities. It’s one of my favorite parts of Europe because you find many of the best here. And Riga is definitely one of them. It’s not huge, but it’s still big enough to provide plenty of interest and exploration. I walked everywhere here, never taking transportation, other than to the airport (which thankfully is pretty close too). The old town can be explored very quickly, and from there you can head north all around the city center, or head east through the Moscow District. There’s not as much interest across the river, but it does provide nice views of the city. Some people recommend Kipsala, which I did explore. I found it too quiet, but it has some nice atmosphere. For the most part, though, I stayed on the main side of the river, exploring away on foot without a worry. Riga is perfect for it.
In the Summer, Hit up Jūrmala Beach for more street photography
Inspiration:
For some more inspiration, you can look through some of the work done in Riga by Magnum Photos photographers here. And as always, you can check out 33 of my photos taken in Riga.
I hope this guide can help you go experience Riga… So grab your camera and capture all that Riga has to offer for Street Photography!
If you still have any questions about shooting in Riga, feel free to comment below or email me!
(I want to make these guides as valuable as possible for all of you so add any ideas on improvements, including addition requests, in the comment section!)
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