*My time in San Juan came before Hurricane Maria. All impressions are based on the city before the hurricane’s devastation to the city, which still hasn’t recovered. I’m a bit cautious of providing links to help because of the questionable corruption and some suspicious refusals of help coming from there, but here’s one link that includes 12 Effective Ways to Donate Money for you to choose from, if you would like to help.
City #49 San Juan had never been on my list to visit on the 100 City Project, but due to a money-saving flight opportunity on the way to London to teach a workshop, I chose to explore, photograph and learn more about this popular Caribbean destination. San Juan is an urban city, so it’s not like most other island destinations, but it has its fair share of beaches and tourist attractions too. Being the second oldest European-founded settlement in the Americas, there’s a lot of history here. You can see the colonial influence within the walls, but outside there’s a much different city that many visitors never venture. There’s a raw energy felt in San Juan, but its heavy tourist and USA influence takes away some of its authenticity and interest, in my opinion. Still, there’s a mix of latin, colonial, american, caribbean and urban city character all in one. Not every city contains a blend like that. Flights are cheap here too.
So here are my first impressions of San Juan, from my personal Street Photographer perspective…
7 First Impressions of San Juan
(From a Street Photography Perspective)
1. Old San Juan is nice and colorful, but feels more touristy and inauthentic compared to most Old Towns
Old San Juan is the historic district of the city and Puerto Rico’s oldest settlement. It’s also San Juan’s main attraction and for many visitors, the place they’ll spend all of their time. Lined with cobblestone streets and colorful colonial architecture, people enjoy exploring the 500 year old atmosphere within the walled city. In addition to its history, though, Old San Juan is filled with restaurants, shopping, bars, dance clubs, museums, galleries and more. While it is a nice old city, it also feels extremely polished, even more than most others. Many tourists will enjoy this aspect, but for me, it doesn’t feel very authentic. There’s a strong made-for-tourists feeling. Still, there’s color, interest, and plenty of people watching in a very safe and walkable area for street photography. At the end, you also have the large, open grass field by the Morro Castle. Not only is it a pretty site overlooking the ocean and famous cemetery, but crowds of people come here to enjoy the scenery and fly kites, which can create interesting scenes for photography against the landscape, especially on Sundays.
So, while it’s not really to my taste due to the extreme tourist polish, I still came back multiple days and it will be the top spot for many others. It really depends on what you enjoy for street photography. Either way, it’s a must to come explore with your camera while your in San Juan.
2. Step down inside La Perla
While small, La Perla was my favorite area for street photography. It’s also known as one of the more dangerous areas, which keeps many people away. Much of this isn’t warranted, though, especially today. You might even wander into La Perla by accident because it’s right outside the wall of Old San Juan. This small stretch of neighborhood sandwiched in-between the wall and ocean is full of character and color that I’d highly recommend walking through for some street photography.
So why is it considered dangerous by many? For a couple of reasons. One, historically it was developed as a shanty town to home slaves and others not allowed to live inside the walled city. And two, it’s become a top spot for drug trade within the city. But I’m still recommending it?? Well, outside of drug selling, crime isn’t like it used to be here. And when it comes to the drug trade, it’s all very organized onto one street. They don’t want any trouble starting here so just keep your camera off when on this street at the top by the wall and you’ll be fine. I actually talked to the dealers there about photography, while also doing some research. You’re free to take photos everywhere except this street, without a problem. You can access La Perla from the cemetery side too, if you don’t want to walk through the drug dealing street.
Other than the colorful and artistic latin vibe throughout La Perla, which has inspired music videos and movies to be filmed here, you also have two famous spots to check out. One, is one of the more impressive cemeteries I’ve visited, due to how it extends to the edge overlooking the ocean. And two, is a grafitti covered abandoned building with a large pool like nothing you’ve ever seen. In addition, you’ll walk with roosters and other foul as you explore the colorful, character-filled streets. It’s a very cool place that doesn’t feel dangerous at all once you know where you’re going.
3. Not that much different from the states, but with a latin vibe added
Puerto Rico is a territory of the United States and in San Juan you can definitely feel that influence. It’s a popular destination for Americans because it provides beaches and sun with a latin vibe, while still being an easy and close destination for the less adventurous. For many, this could make it a perfect city to visit. For me, I wanted something a little more different. We’re all influenced by our experiences, though, so it might feel much more different for you. Personally, though, I lived in Miami and probably would say it feels more foreign and latin there than San Juan.
Be prepared for USA prices too because San Juan isn’t exactly cheap. If you’re comparing to other cities in Latin America, it’s one of the most expensive. People coming from North America, Australia or Western Europe, probably won’t find it bad, but if you’re coming from any of the other islands or Americas, it can feel like a bad value. Just think USA prices in a Latin American city.
4. San Juan Beach Life
When visitors aren’t exploring Old San Juan, they’re probably at the beach. San Juan makes for one of the most affordable flights for a beach destination in the Caribbean, with some city life to top it off, so you’ll find the beaches crowded most of the time when the sun is out. East of Old San Juan on the north coast is where you’ll find the city’s main beaches.
Escambron, located on the east end of Puerta de Tierra, is probably the most picturesque with less of a city feeling, but won’t get as crowded as the other two. Walking east, you’ll hit Condado, a trendier beach with luxury resorts and tourists laying out in the sun. Further east, at Ocean Park, you’ll find the best beaches if you’re interested in “street” photography. It’s much more casual here with a mix of locals and tourists. It’s not as packed as Condado, but has more of a variety of activity. You’ll find a laid back vibe with friends hanging out listening to music under the palm trees, recreational activities on the sand, dogs out for a walk, and more. Photographing beach life can be interesting, so if you’re in San Juan, it’s worth giving this line of beaches a walk with your camera. Having lived in Miami, I found a similar vibe here compared to mid-beach in Miami. Not as flashy as South Beach, but a comparable atmosphere north of there, including around the beaches’ back streets.
5. Get out of the tourist spots, no one else does
One thing I noticed was that non-locals don’t go anywhere in San Juan outside of Old San Juan and Santurce to the beaches from Condado to Ocean Park. This seems to even include people staying long-term. And when asking locals where else to go in the city, they all told me this was it. While I’ll admit there’s not too much of interest to visit outside of these areas, there can be for street photography. Those areas mentioned above only cover the small northern section of San Juan, but if you want the more urban side of the city, you can walk southeast along Avenida Juan Ponce de León. This Main Street goes on for a while and will take you right through the downtown area of San Juan. While it’s not special compared to other downtowns, it still gives you a different side of the city outside the tourist areas. For street photography, you’ll get more gritty, urban life and should always find a decent amount of activity walking this street. And for local life, that’s all you will find here.
6. Many people staying long-term
San Juan seems to attract a lot of people escaping from something. I met many people who came here solo to get away and hadn’t left yet. It’s probably a combination of the sun, beach and easy transition to more of an island life, but it was very noticeable the more people I met and saw. Many are Americans, from the young and worry free to the older and seemingly early retired. There was a decent amount of Europeans I met, though, too that had come and not left. This can give a slightly strange dynamic for street life when walking the streets and beaches with your camera. And I found the locals don’t always love this trend, but it is something that stood out to me in San Juan.
You’ll find mostly your normal tourists in Old San Juan, but a lot of these long-term tourists stay around the beaches and Santurce. And for nightlife, they mix with short-term tourists and young locals in La Placita, a plaza of bar lined streets, which is also another decent area to check out for street photography.
7. I’d probably check out more of the rest of the country
I try to keep these posts positive, but also honest. And I have to be honest, San Juan isn’t my most recommendable city so far on my 100 City Project. But I gave my mains reasons for this above, so it doesn’t mean it will be the same for you. The things that don’t appeal for me here could definitely appeal to others. It’s just that I love so many places in Latin America, but San Juan seems latin-lite and just not very authentic. So for me, it’s hanging in the middle, which isn’t the best place to be for street photography, in my opinion.
That being said, you might like the easy transition for some relaxing photo walks with just enough latin atmosphere to make it interesting. For partying and beaches, it isn’t too bad, either. But San Juan is only one city on this island, so if you make it here and have some time, I’d highly recommend checking out the rest of the island if you want to get away from some of that Americanized touristic atmosphere.
Mix of flavors
San Juan was never supposed to be included in my 100 Cities Project, but it found its way in. While I can’t say its been one of my favorite inclusions, I still found interest to explore. And for many, San Juan might be the perfect mix of latin carribean flavor, beaches, and history in a package that is easy even for the most inexperienced travelers. Hopefully, some of my impressions can help you find a few places for some street photography while you’re here too.
If any of you have been to San Juan before, tell me about your experience and impressions of the city and country in the comments below! And stay tuned for more on San Juan, including some of the best Street Photography shots I captured while there.
Click Here for More First Impressions on Cities Around the World
(from a street photographer’s perspective)
Comment Here!