Izmir, Turkey came in as major city #63 on my Major City project and here I’ll share a few first impressions covering the city with my camera. Izmir hadn’t been on my list for the major city project, but due to travel arrangements and work, it was added last minute. I lived in Istanbul in 2015/2016, but hadn’t been back to Turkey since. Istanbul holds a special place for me, as not only my prior home, but also the first city on my project and still a top 3 city in the world for street photography, in my opinion. Istanbul has it all so I didn’t want to compare it to Izmir. While living in Istanbul, though, Izmir was the most common favorite Turkish city by the locals I met. They loved its reputation as the most open and liberal city in the country. When it comes to tourists, though, Izmir doesn’t get as much attention. So, visiting Turkey’s third largest city became an opportunity to find out about this city for myself, while also seeing how it is for street photography.
Here are my first impressions of Izmir, from my personal Street Photographer perspective…
7 First Impressions of Izmir
(From a Street Photography Perspective)
1. Turkey’s most open city?
When I lived in Istanbul, Izmir was the other Turkish city I heard most about from locals. Many had moved from there for work opportunities, but all spoke of Izmir with much love. I was told how it’s the most open city in the country with a very free vibe. People relaxing with friends and enjoying life. Izmir is known as Turkey’s most proudly liberal city and while it’s also its 3rd largest city, it wasn’t until years later that I finally had the chance to experience everything I’d heard.
Istanbul is such a large city with a variety of life, that you do have those pockets of young, free and open atmosphere, but in Izmir you feel it everywhere. People really seem to enjoy living here and there’s much less tension here compared to Istanbul. It feels more open and carefree. Walking along the sea, you especially feel this in the air. Everyday, people cover the long strips of grass, drinking, laughing, and enjoying each others company. You don’t feel the troubles of the world, or the country, when walking the city here. People are just living life, and worrying less. I can now see why all the Turkish people I met over the years talked so highly of this welcoming city on the sea.
2. Kordon is Izmir’s lifeline
I can’t imagine Izmir without its Kordon, the long seaside promenade always full of life. It’s an icon of the city and what really makes Izmir special. Stretching 6 km from Alasancak down to Konak Meydanı, it passes by popular spots like Cumhuriyet Square and Konak Pier. The whole way, though, you’ll pass through plenty of life and interest. You’ll find long stretches of grass that fill with locals enjoying each others company, especially towards the end of the day, as it’s the city’s main meeting spot for relaxation. You’ll also walk by bicycle paths, gyms, benches, cafes, bars, fishermen, and the endless view of the sea. The city did a good job filling it with a variety of attractions, while the people fill it with life.
All ages and characters are attracted to the Kordon, making it worth walking over and over again. Strolling promenades with your camera, while feeling the cool sea breeze is already enjoyable, but Izmir’s Kordon is one of the most active and vibrant that I’ve experienced. Not a day went by where I didn’t walk it with my camera. The variety of interest and life here at the Kordon is what makes Izmir worth coming to.
3. Konak Square
Konak Square is the busiest square in the city and home to the famous Izmir Clock Tower. It’s located right in-between the Kordon and Izmir’s largest bazaar, Kemeralti, while also being by Kent Tarihi Park and the Central Bus Station. So, no where else in the city comes close to the foot traffic and activity around here during the day. Surrounding the clock tower, pigeon feeding and chasing is the activity, in addition to plenty of selfies. All tourists in Izmir come here, but there’s enough locals that it doesn’t feel overly touristy, especially in the surrounding areas. For street photography, it’s a spot for guaranteed activity, but I like it more for its location. You can check out the square first and then make your way through the park, head to the bazaar, walk to the Konak, or wherever you like. You’re surrounded with a variety of activity in every direction.
4. Kemeralti Bazaar
The Kemeralti Bazaar is the main bazaar in Izmir and one of the best in Turkey. It dates back to the 17th century and covers a wide area, from Konak Square through the quarters of Namazgah, Mezarlıkbaşı and İkiçeşmelik. Kemeralti Bazaar is definitely one of the most active places in the city, with its maze of winding streets full of locals and tourists. You’ll find everything here that you’d imagine in a large Turkish bazaar, all types of shops and eateries.
This historic sections is a lot more than just a bazaar, as you’ll also find courtyards, mosques, and more. It still feels like the heart of the city, along with the Kordon, and provides hours of exploration with your camera. My favorite spots are the areas that open up some to let light in where people hang out instead of moving in all directions. It’s easy to get lost in this historical labyrinth, but that’s ok, you’ll eventually find your way out.
5. History meets modern city
Izmir is full of history, but you might not feel it walking most of its streets. Izmir dates all the way back to 3000 BC, when it was first named Smyrna. It was an important city throughout time, but a century ago during the Turkish War of Independence the city went through great destruction and many fires. This left it a shell of its former self, but has since seen re-development into a very modern city. For many, this can mean it feels more like a concrete sprawl than a photogenic city. Unless you’re walking along the sea, the city itself is not the most beautiful, especially for Turkey, but the history is still there if you explore. This mix of modern meets history meets sea can provide some of its charm too. When it really comes down to it, though, the life of the city is what really makes Izmir. So, as long as you don’t expect the endless beauty and character of a city like Istanbul and many other Turkish cities, you’ll enjoy what it does have.
6. Take the ferry across to Karşıyaka
One of my favorite parts of living in Istanbul was taking the ferry and while ferry life isn’t the same in Izmir, it’s still something enjoyable to do. My favorite spot to take the ferry is from the center ports across the bay to Karşıyaka. Karşıyaka is a popular district in Izmir full of commercial streets, neighborhoods and urban culture, including the city’s most popular sports club. It has its own promenade and just in front of the ferry port, you’ll see crowds of people entering the commercial streets full of shopping, food and more. Mixed in with this urban district, you’ll see horse and carriages and some older spots. Karşıyaka extends for many kilometers north, but the main interest for visiting is located near the water, which is also the wealthier section. It’s not a drastic change of scenery from Izmir’s center, but it gives you more to explore with your camera, and a ferry ride as a bonus.
7. Worth a longer stop to enjoy this side of Turkish life
While it is Turkey’s 3rd largest city, sits on the sea and is a local favorite for its relaxed and open atmosphere, it doesn’t attract the tourists that other Turkish cities do. Tourists do come here, but mainly just to use as a base to visit all the nearby historical sites, like the famous Ephesus. After hearing so much about the city from locals, I had to find out why they love it, but tourists often neglect it. Maybe it’s because it can’t compete with Istanbul when it comes to bigger cities, but not many cities in the world can. It still provides plenty of Turkish atmosphere on the sea, while bringing its own unique laid back atmosphere. It has the history, the bazaar, the sea and one of the best promenades anywhere, all with a very welcoming and laidback atmosphere. The actual city is more of a concrete sprawl lacking character, which does take aways some points, but overall I’d still say it’s definitely worth some time. There’s enough areas of interest and the Kordon is worth days of walking with your camera all by itself. The life and vibe of the city is what I’ll remember most, which makes street photography an enjoyable experience in Izmir.
If any of you have been to Izmir before, tell me about your experience and impressions of the city and country in the comments below! And stay tuned for more on Izmir, including some of the best Street Photography shots I captured while there.
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(from a street photographer’s perspective)
Nice shots and summary FD. I think when Turkish people refer to their love of “Izmir,” they’re more referring to the coastal towns and beaches like in Cesme and Foca, but I agree that the city itself is worth a day’s detour on a street photography hunt. It gets pretty sweltering in the summer, but I imagine a walk along the Kordon and through Kemeralti would be pretty nice most of the year. The beaches are also good spots for photography, and a good contrast to the vibe/style you’d get in Istanbul for sure.
Thanks for the comment, Scott! Actually, what I was talking about was definitely only in their reference to Izmir and nothing to do with coastal towns, attractions or anything touristy. I was mostly talking about the people I know and met that knew it well, so it was all about living there and how they felt it has the best vibe/atmosphere/culture in Turkey for living, felt more free to them, but unfortunately without Istanbul’s supply of jobs. Just their opinion, though, but I can see how they might feel that way compared to other cities in Turkey. Cheers
Ah in that context it makes perfect sense, and I’ve heard more or less the same thing before. The way that cities and provinces there are used pretty much interchangably never fails to confuse me :)