Almaty, Kazakhstan comes in as major city #56 on my Major City project and here I’ll share a few first impressions exploring the city with my camera. Central Asia mostly attracts the more adventurous travelers attracted to the region’s nature and off-the-beaten-path atmosphere, but Almaty provides the easiest introduction to the region with its mix of influences and interests. You get the beautiful nature and mountainous backdrop mixed with Russia meets Asia influences, but you also get the most cosmopolitan and European flavor in Central Asia. Traditional markets and parks next to trendy cafes and bars, Almaty is full of interest and quirks that make it one of the more memorable and unique places I’ve hit during my 5- year project. While it will be one of the major cities people are least familiar with, it’s also one of the most recommendable so far.
So here are my first impressions of Almaty, from a personal Street Photographer perspective…
7 First Impressions of Almaty
(From a Street Photography Perspective)
1. Beautiful backdrop of mountains
One of the first things you’ll notice in Almaty is the beautiful backdrop of mountains that line the city. Almaty is located at the Zailiski Alatau mountain base, a mountain range that reaches heights over 4,000 meters and extends for almost 400 km. When the skies are clear, it can be an impressive sight, especially in a big urban city. Not many major cities have backdrops like this so it’s definitely one of the things that stood out for me immediately and something I enjoyed about the city. For photos, they can of course make their way into the backgrounds for a nice touch that shows some of Almaty’s charm. The south of the city has the best view of the range behind the buildings. This also brings up a nice navigational tip they provide. Uphill is south and downhill is north, which can come in handy when walking the city.
2. Nice mix of nature in an urban setting
Along with those mountains comes plenty of nature in an urban setting. For many, this is what they’ll like the most about Almaty. Not many cities this size provide so much nature with parks, tree-lined streets, mountains, rivers, natural pathways, and more. Even the city walls are covered in pictures of mountains and lakes, so no matter where you are, you’re surrounded by nature in the city. Central Park and Panfilov Park are musts to check out for a mix of nature and people. Almaty’s river walks are nice too for activity and life while enjoying the peaceful atmosphere within a city.
If you want a complete break from street photography, Almaty is located near 100% nature focused activities too. Hiking is a very popular activity here so you can find plenty of mountains and hikes with amazing views at the top. You might even want to mix some landscape photography with all those street shots.
3. Interesting mix of Soviet, Asia and Europe
Sitting between Russia and China, Europe and Asia, you have a strong blend of influences in Kazakstan. This is seen in character and atmosphere of the city in Almaty. One thing that Almaty brings more than much of the Central Asia region, though, is a definite European vibe mixed in. Coffeeshops/cafes are all over the city and make for a big part of the social life. Another part of the social life is a bigger nightlife scene than you’ll find anywhere else in the region. There’s a free/european vibe that a lot of the younger culture gravitates towards.
Still, that soviet past with a mix of Asia is seen and felt all over the city, especially in its quirks. Soviet style statues are found all over the city, sometimes in random places. Architecture, markets, parks, shops, and soviet block apartments all add much to the feeling of the city. But you also have a very modern, more European side of the city blending together with its past. The people themselves show the mix of influences in look too. And while you can find the older style fashion, Almaty’s younger crowd is much more fashion forward, bringing some more of that European vibe. It’s a city with a strong mix of very different influences that makes it stand apart from other cities.
4. Area from Zelyony Bazaar to Central Mosque and Sayakhat Bus Station is a great walk
Zelyony Bazaar, also known as the Green Market, is Almaty’s busiest and biggest market. With a mix of inside and outside stalls selling an endless variety of goods, this older styled market has been a hub of the city for over a century and you can feel it. Its long history also makes it a main attraction for visitors, but you still have a local feeling when exploring the area with your camera. It feels authentic and was a spot I came back to as much as any for street photography. You’ll find plenty of characters and character here, but you’re also nearby many other good spots to continue for more photography.
You can walk up by the Central Mosque where you’ll find more activity, but one of my favorite spots in the city is just above the mosque around Sayakhat Bus Station. Here, you’ll not only find all the locals coming for transportation, including lines of hitchhikers, but also another busy market. The market here has even more local character than the Green Market, with a more rural vibe. It’s a quirky and interesting area to experience and capture.
This condensed section of Almaty provides a great street photography walk where you can hit up multiple spots, find great light and colors, and spend hours without realizing it.
5. The hidden Nikolsky Church & Bazaar are a nice find
There’s not much info on Almaty online for visitors so I had to do a lot of exploring on foot to find interest on my own. The bazaar by Nikolsky Church was one of the better finds I discovered. It’s hidden and away from places that visitors go so it’s unlikely you’d find it without knowing where to go. While somewhat hidden itself, the Nikolsky Church will help you find the bazaar and its turquoise painted wooden exterior is interest enough to quickly check out while you’re here too. The actual bazaar is just a few steps further down the sidewalk where you’ll see an alley entrance between a couple small shops. After entering the alley of shops, it opens up into a bigger market. There’s a very local feeling here with mix of covered and open market life. While not huge, it’s big enough and brings some authenticity that’s worth coming this way for some street photography at this hidden spot most visitors will never see.
6. Some expats, few tourists
In Central Asia, Almaty is the city probably most equipped for foreigners. It has everything you could need in a comfortable city to live, especially compared to some of the more exotic locations in the region. For Europeans, you have endless cafes and a culture that feels closer than the rest of Central Asia too. So, there is a decent expat community here, who mostly stay around Donstyk Plaza. I stayed in a more central location, though, where I didn’t see many non-locals and even received a few surprised, but friendly reactions to see me exploring the city. A few tourists do drop by the main attractions, but usually just as a quick stop while they backpack and hike the beautiful terrain that surrounds the city.
So while Almaty is not hidden from the rest of the world like some people’s reactions indicate when I tell them I included it my project, it still has a very local feeling. There’s an international connection that you can feel here, but without any takeover of tourism or polished change that usually comes with it. This combination makes it a perfect place to comfortably enjoy the city, while also getting some unique and authentic content for street photography.
7. Great first experience if you want to visit Central Asia
Central Asia makes for an interesting region to discover. It doesn’t attract as many visitors compared to other areas of the world, but that provides part of its charm. Many of the visitors that do make their way here come for the nature and to experience an area of the world that feels distant from other parts. Kazakhstan, along with Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Afghanistan make up Central Asia. Out of all the cities found here, Almaty probably provides the easiest transition for the common traveler, though. While you still feel like you’re away from other parts of the world, it doesn’t feel too exotic, making it any easy city for less experienced travelers.
Almaty also has the most European feel compared to other cities in the region. With the cafe culture and life of Almaty, it can feel more European than much of Russia even. You have the quirks and different ways of life in the city that this region provides, but in a city with many other influences and developments that you may be more used to. For many, that will make Almaty a great first stop in Central Asia, especially with your camera.
If any of you have been to Almaty before, tell me about your experience and impressions of the city and country in the comments below! And stay tuned for more on Almaty, including some of the best Street Photography shots I captured while there.
Click Here for More First Impressions on Cities Around the World
(from a street photographer’s perspective)
Cams says
This was wonderful to read. I lived in Almaty for two years, from 1999-2001 and wasn’t into photography then, more’s the pity. I believe it has changed a lot since that time. I’m still friends with a lot of people I knew there and often find myself yearning for those days and to go back and visit again, this time with my camera! I have very few photos of that time, though enough of the people I worked with that I don’t forget all the names and faces. I had a wonderful time there and would dearly love to go back. Thanks for your article and for prompting some memories for me!
Eric Cartman says
There’s no influence of Chinese culture in Almaty and Kazakhstan in general. Just because people have asian-european mixed look doesn’t mean that they have a mixed culture. There’s Gobi desert inbetween China and Kazakhstan which limited connection and influence throughout history which made Kazakhstan to be influenced by middle east rather than China. Or do you think that because you find looks of kazakhs “similar” to chinese they must have the same culture?
There’s more to say but I’d rather stop before the comment gets too long to read.
f.d. walker says
I never said anything about Chinese influence or culture. I only mentioned they border them, which is true. Very revealing that you would imagine something that was never mentioned just so you could write all that, must be some internal issues you have against Chinese. Also, why’d you only mention the Middle East as an influence, What about the Mongolian empire?