After finishing a couple major cities in South Africa, I took a flight to Addis Abba, major city #48 on the 100 City project.
Ethiopia has become one of the more popular destinations for travelers to explore in Africa. For good reason too. It’s welcoming, safer in comparison to much of Africa, beautiful and full of unique interest and life. Addis Ababa tends to be included as nothing more than Ethiopia’s big city transit destination, though. While most come for the more rural side of Ethiopia, this chaotic, traffic-filled sprawl can be overlooked. Underneath that less pretty urban exterior is much more than first meets the eye, though. My project focuses on big cities and one of the many reasons for that focus is to see, and show, how much more major cities offer than their stereotypical first impressions. The truth is there is color and beauty to be found, and much more. And as Africa’s fourth-largest city and its diplomatic capital, it’s by far the country’s largest and most influential city. It’s a very complex city that mixes the urban atmosphere with Ethiopia’s rich traditions and history. With the largest and craziest open air market in all of Africa, you already have enough reason to bring your camera for some street photography, but that’s just the start if you really explore this active city.
So here are my first impressions of Addis Ababa, from my personal Street Photographer perspective…
7 First Impressions of Addis Ababa
(From a Street Photography Perspective)
1. The big Ethiopian city many skip
When most people travel to Ethiopia, they want to explore the country, which usually means skip the big city. At around 4 million people, Addis Ababa is easily the country’s largest city. Since my 100 City Project focuses on major cities, it was a must for me, but since it’ll likely be your gateway into Ethiopia, I can honestly recommend giving it some time too. I like exploring and finding more to the city than first glimpse and Addis rewards this. It is a big city and doesn’t have a lot of the appeal as the rest of Ethiopia on first impression, but the more you dig in, the more you discover. Best of all, you get the best mix of old Ethiopia meets modern metropolis in this rapidly growing city, which can be very interesting. Plus, due to the high altitude, it’s one of the few places without malaria risk in the country. It might not be for every visitor, but for most street photographers, it should be worth your time.
2. Love Piassa’s old character mixed with color, activity and great light
The Piassa neighborhood is probably my favorite area to explore for street photography in the city, especially towards the end of the day. It’s the old town of the city, yesterday’s economic heart of Addis Ababa. Today, it’s mostly shopping, budget hotels and restaurants, but it’s still filled with character from the past. For street photography, it has to be the most picturesque part of the city with colorful old buildings influenced by a variety of cultures. There’s the Italian Occupation’s influence, but you’ll also see Greek, Armenian, Indian and of course, Ethiopian in the mix of flavor here. Cinema Ethiopia is one of the run down landmarks you’ll find here, but all the streets contain similar character.
In addition to the interest and color, you’ll also find a ton of activity here. My favorite time is around 5pm when people are getting off work. The large bus station and streets of shared vans get chaotic around this time, while the street markets and businesses continue their activity. Combine that with the great light here at this time and the colorful, character filled backgrounds, and you have a spot made for street photography in Piassa.
3. Gigantic, Chaotic Addis Merkato
The Addis Merkato, normally shortened to Merkato, is the largest open air market in all of Africa, which should tell you something about its size. They estimate that over 13,000 people work here in over 7,000 different businesses. Honestly, all this doesn’t really help describe the sheer size felt when it exploring it, though. You could spend all day getting lost in its endless, crowded streets. There’s a mix of everything found here, especially produce and other locally grown products, along with specific items sometimes sectioned onto streets.
Other than size, I don’t know many markets that could match it for chaos, either. It’s crowded, dirty, and probably overwhelming for most, but that also makes it packed with interest. It’s not as pretty as most markets, but if you like action, you’ll find here in abundance. I do have to mention, though, recommending shooting here does come with caution. The Merkato is very known for its pick pockets and brings many warnings from the locals. You shouldn’t have to worry about personal safety too much, but not everyone is the friendliest, especially when it comes to photos. You have to bring some confidence and watch your pockets, but you can’t miss visiting Africa’s largest outside market if you’re in Addis, especially if you’re interested in street photography.
4. But be careful, especially around Merkato
While violent crime isn’t a big danger in Addis Ababa, petty crime can be, especially pick pocketing. I was warned by locals quite a bit about pick pocketing, especially around the Merkato, and my experience backed them up. During all of my travels, I’d never experienced pick pocketing, only heard and saw it, but Addis provided my first experiences (yes, multiple). Luckily, they were only attempts and I got away with my stuff, but both times it happened around the Merkato. Once, was a whole four-man routine where one person “accidentally” spits a piece of fruit on my shorts, followed by them all immediately helping clean it off with bottled water, a towel and plenty of overly friendly conversation to distract me, while one hand goes in the pocket to grab my phone. The strangeness of this should ring an alarm, but it does happen so fast that you have to realize it the second they start. The other attempt was a quick bump and grab in a crowd. Both times I was able to grab their wrist before they could pull my phone out of my pocket. So, I’d definitely try to keep your phone and valuables somewhere they can’t easily grab it.
Another thing about the Merkato is that it comes with warnings of harassment, which I did also experience. It’s not all friendly and you can run into some strange characters at its most chaotic so you just have to be confident and careful when you’re here shooting around the Merkato, especially on Saturday when it’s the most crowded.
5. They don’t love photos here
I was warned about Ethiopia many times by other photographers when it came to photo reactions. I was told how I’ll hear non-stop “no photos” walking here with a camera, especially in Addis Ababa. Well, they weren’t lying. “No photos, forbidden” was the most common thing I heard, just walking around. I’ve been to my fair share of places where unpaid public photography isn’t openly welcomed, but have learned how to deal with it without much trouble anymore. The same was true here, although, Addis Ababa is towards the top of the list for most hassle when it comes to photos, especially around the main markets. A couple of locals talked to me about it and explained that the city has become very suspicious of others, especially when it comes to cameras. I did notice some difference between areas within the city too, though, as Piassa and Bole seemed to give me the least hassle, while the areas around the market gave me the most.
I still made photos as I normally do. I just dealt with the no’s and hassle, which most of the time were just said without much seriousness, like it was just something to say. When someone did come at me, talking to them with a smile was usually good enough. At times, it can get frustrating, but it’s just something you have to be ok with if you really want to shoot freely in Addis Ababa (fortunately, the rest of the country isn’t to the same level).
6. Shared vans were my friend
They’re popular all over Ethiopia, but in Addis Ababa they run the streets. Nicknamed “Blue Donkeys,” these minibus/vans are like shared taxis working different routes and destinations within the city. They’re much, much cheaper than regular taxis, while being surprisingly efficient, fast and easy. You’ll see people grouped by the street all over the city, while vans continually slow down or stop, as a man hangs out the van yelling their destination direction. I don’t speak a lick of the language, but had no problem using them everyday to get back and forth to my hotel. At a cost of only 2-5 birr (10-25 cents), it’s impossible to beat.
Funny enough, most locals were very surprised to see a foreigner using them, though. I repeatedly got asked why I don’t take a taxi like other foreigners, while receiving surprised looks and smiles as I crammed into the van. They do pack them like sardines, but I don’t mind this, as long as it gets me where I need to go quickly enough. While a light rail is in the works, I really didn’t miss it with these blue donkeys working as well as they do in Addis Ababa.
7. Bole provides a different side of the city
For the more modern side of the city, and what many locals call the nicest part, you can explore Bole. This section of Addis Ababa goes from the airport, with the same name, all the way to Meskel Square. You can feel things changing fast here as construction keeps building it up. There’s no shortage of cafes, restaurants, shops and business buildings along its main street, along with plenty of pedestrians. It’s a prime spot for nightlife too. Addis Ababa has a strong Chinese influence now too, with China investing in property and businesses everywhere. You’ll see it all over the constructions sites and newer buildings. Bole is where a lot of the expats moving to work in those new business stay. I wouldn’t call Bole pretty or filled with character, it’s more of a concrete jungle, but it does provide life and a different, more modern atmosphere. This is where you can feel how much the city is changing. Some of the busier spots are near the Friendship Mall or by the many shared van stops along the main street, especially when people get off work.
Conclusion
As a whole, Ethiopia became one of my favorite country experiences for street photography and Addis Ababa was an interesting introduction. While other cities here were love at first walk for street photography, Addis Ababa did take more time and exploration to love. But that’s what I love about big cities, there’s almost always more than first meets the eye and Addis Ababa was a shining example. It brings that unique mix of chaotic urban life meets old traditions, and if you want to find the interest and colors that the rest of Ethiopia supplies, you can find it here too.
If any of you have been to Addis Ababa before, tell me about your experience and impressions of the city and country in the comments below! And stay tuned for more on Addis Ababa, including some of the best Street Photography shots I captured while there.
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(from a street photographer’s perspective)
f.d. walker, thanks so much for the post.Much thanks again. Really Cool.
found this post really interesting. I’ll be visiting Ethiopia for the first time in three weeks and apart from Harar where I’ll spend 4-5 days, I’m not sure where else to spend the rest of my two weeks. Addis sounds like a challenge I’m not sure I’m up for with the “no photo” and potential crime around Merkato. Where else would you recommend? I’m particularly interested in architecture, but as long as there are buildings with some culture, anywhere is good. TIA.